Archive for the 'Thai' Category

Scenes: Eating in Bangkok III

We started off our third full day in Bangkok much like the one before—The Astronomer and I went on a run, while Lush got some extra shut eye. We departed from our hostel around noon and headed to the Chatuchak Weekend Market.

Just a few steps from home base, I was wooed by a vendor with a wok frying up all sorts of good stuff. I had no clue what she was making, but it looked mighty tasty, so I pointed to an attractive plate she had just served up and asked for an identical one.

What arrived at our table was “larp moo” (30 baht), a dish of minced pork seasoned with herbs and lots of chilies. The Astronomer ate the majority of this dish because I am a wuss when it comes to spicy.

The man sitting across from us ordered the “cal pad peek” which came with a gorgeous fried egg on top (40 baht). I once again pointed and requested an identical plate. Thin slices of beef were stir-fried with white and green onions in soy sauce. The results were simple and good. The egg could’ve been runnier, but I have no idea how to say that in Thai.

Two skytrains later, we arrived at the Chatuchak Weekend Market. Prior to exiting the station, The Astronomer purchased a maple waffle (15 baht). The waffle was freshly made and still warm from the iron. With crisped edges, moist innards and caramelized topping, it was the most delicious waffle we ate in Bangkok.

The Chatuchak Weekend Market is a huge affair. In fact, it took us a couple of hours just to complete a loop around it. Lush was the first to succumb to the plethora of goodies on sale. She purchased a stick of cocktail wieners wrapped in wonton paper (10 baht).

Although they looked adorable, I passed on the Thai-style pigs in a blanket because there’s something about a collection of unknown meats that is unsettling. Lush and The Astronomer liked them well enough, but not as much as grilled meats on a stick.

After spending a good hour or so shuffling through racks of vintage clothes and contemplating America’s influence on global trends, we were all ready to eat. The Astronomer ordered up a shallow bowl of curry with fish balls served over vermicelli rice noodles (25 baht).

Shredded cabbage, cucumbers and herbs were available tableside for diners to garnish their noodles to taste. The coconut milk within the curry cut some of its intrinsic spiciness, but not enough for my sad excuse of a palette. I wonder if it is possible to train oneself to embrace spicy foods.

Lush purchased some Thai iced tea-flavored ice cream topped with condensed milk (15 baht). Although the texture was slightly icy, the flavor was definitely right on. My friend’s penchant for sweets is unparalleled.

Next, The Astronomer purchased a couple fried fish cakes (10 baht).

We’re not exactly sure what these things are made of, but they expand quite a bit when submerged in hot oil. Although the fish cakes looked impressive, they tasted like basic seafood forcemeat seasoned with fish sauce.

A collection of sushi, including a variety in the shape of Asia’s #1 sensation Hello Kitty, caught my eye.

I chose three pieces: tomago, seaweed and octopus (15 baht). The sweet egg, seaweed and octopus were not rolled within the rice like traditional sushi. Instead, they were placed atop a roll made of solid rice and seaweed like toppings. The rice was too densely packed, but I had no complaints about the tomago, seaweed and octopus.

While The Astronomer and I tasted various savories, Lush craved more sweets and procured a Thai milk shake (20 baht). The Astronomer hit the nail on the head when he said it tasted like artificial bubblegum flavoring. It was pretty, but not tasty.

After a brief shopping intermission, The Astronomer sampled a fried vegetable “samosa” (20 baht). He said it tasted like the type of Chinese eggroll that comes free with a combo meal. There was a lot of cabbage, and not much else.

Still not satisfied in the sweets department, Lush went for a stick of pandan-flavored ice cream (10 baht). It tasted similar to The Astronomer’s rainbow ice cream from the day before—sweet, cold, and not the least bit pandan-like.

Some of the best noodles we enjoyed in Bangkok were sold at the weekend market. The Astronomer’s soy sauce noodles with greens (10 baht) were texturally terrific and well-seasoned. I love wide noodles with all of my heart.

In the mood for something other than refined sugars, Lush picked up a portion of barbecued pork pieces (35 baht). The pork was prepared in the classic style of Chinese barbecue complete with a beautiful pink glaze. The meat was moist, not too fatty and just sweet enough.

As we left the market and headed back to the Sukhumvit area, I grabbed a mixed fruit waffle (18 baht) to munch on. The waffle wasn’t warm off the iron like the maple one from earlier, but still excellent. This chain needs to come to Vietnam pronto.

For dinner, we checked out the sixth floor food court at Mah Boon Khrong, better known as MBK.

Craving something fresh and healthy to counterbalance the caloric-fest from earlier, I settled on a crispy catfish salad (30 baht). The barely recognizable catfish was served over a bed of romaine lettuce and topped with salted peanuts, carrots and green papaya. The fish-sauce based dressing was so spicy that my eyes watered profusely. Albeit being too fiery, I still found the salad quite enjoyable and ate every last bit. Bangkok really does know how to deep-fry its fishes.

The Astronomer chose noodles with greens and pork served in thick gravy (35 baht) for his dinner. Similar to Vietnamese mi xao don, the dish’s crunchy noodles softened in the pool of sauce. The flavors in this dish were delicate and familiar, but the abundance of gravy was too much.

The Astronomer and I shared some pork rolls (30 baht) for our final dinner course. Thin sheets of rice paper wrapped around pieces of marinated pork and fresh romaine lettuce. It was a strong finish to our food court dinner.

Walking back to the hostel, we purchased two roti with sugar and condensed milk (5 baht) because a day without roti is a day without sunshine. Not nearly as big and fluffy as the one before, this one still hit the spot.

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Scenes: Eating in Bangkok II

The Astronomer and I started our second full day in Bangkok with another run around the man-made lake, while Lush indulged in a two-hour long, full-body massage. We headed out of the hostel around noon to explore the Royal Palace, Chinatown, and whatever else floated our boats along the way.

Sukhumvit Soi 11, the alley in which our hostel was located, is packed with food vendors practically all day and night. Even when we weren’t looking to eat, there was always a delight that temptingly caught our eyes.

While walking to the skytrain station, Lush picked up a bag of mussels sautéed with vegetables and chilies (20 baht). The seafood salad was sold pre-portioned and at room temperature. It was a bit too spicy for me, but Lush enjoyed it thoroughly because her palate is cut out for that kind of stuff, whereas mine just burns.

The Astronomer and I kicked off the day with a fried tamarind fish with rice (40 baht), which was sold next to the mussel salad vendor. The fish’s crispy skin absorbed the tamarind sauce like a sponge, while the white flaky flesh was moist and fresh. There was something about the fish’s residual oiliness mixed with the tangy tamarind that was so awesome!

Two skytrains and a water taxi ride later, we arrived in the vicinity of the Royal Palace. The water taxi dropped us off in an extensive outdoor food market. Even though we ate merely a half an hour ago, we were game for more.

Lush grabbed a rum raisin waffle that reminded The Astronomer and I of the wonderful Belgian waffles we used to eat at Bonte in Philadelphia. The crispy and flaky specimen was the first of many more Bangkok waffles to come

The Astronomer spotted a tub full of chicken drumsticks resembling his favorite Chinese-American dish, sesame chicken. He ordered a plate with rice and announced that they met his expectations–the sweet and sticky flavor was classic and unmistakable.

I had a Barry Schwartz moment as I perused the selections on hand at a rice and fixins stall.

After a bit of hemming and hawing, I settled on the Thai braised pork belly with hardboiled eggs (25). The appearance of “Thai Pakow” bore an uncanny resemblance to thit kho, one of my all-time favorite Vietnamese dishes. The pork pieces were smaller than the ones in thit kho, but just as tender. Although I wanted to love it, the dish’s overwhelming sweetness was too much for me. I guess syrupy meats just aren’t my thing.

While the Astronomer ate his chicken and I ate my sweet meat, Lush sipped down a cool glass of Matoom juice (10 baht). Matoom is Thai for bael fruit. It was sorta sweet, sorta sour, and 100% hydrating.

For dessert, Lush and I visited a man with forearms of steel.

He served us up mini-scoops of coconut ice cream topped with lychees, pineapple and corn nibblets (10 baht). Ever since my friend Britta told me about the corn ice cream she sampled while studying abroad in China, I’ve wanted to try the unorthodox combination. The verdict? Not bad at all. I’d buy a quart of cornbread-flavored ice cream with corn nibblet swirls any day.

From the outdoor market, we headed to the Royal Palace, where our eyeballs and skin were seared from the shiny buildings and relentless sun. The sites were beautiful but draining.

After we left the historic site, we meandered toward Chinatown. Not having stuffed our faces for at least three hours, we were ready to eat once again. Our first purchase of the evening was half a kilogram of Man Plums (60 baht). A cross between mangoes and apricots, these little plums were simultaneously sweet and tart. I do love trying new fruits!

Just a few steps away from the Man Plum dealer, we spotted a woman making several varieties of roti using eggs, bananas, sugar and condensed milk.

We opted for the basic roti made with an orange-colored “butter,” condensed milk and sugar (7 baht). The roti were served hot and crispy off the pan and wrapped in butcher paper to absorb the excess grease. The roti’s texture was a cross between naan and chapatti, while the sweet and creamy innards were nothing short of dreamy.

Even though I had a disappointing experience with grilled bananas the day before, I wasn’t ready to give up yet. I knew I was in for a treat when I saw a small crowd huddling around this vendor.

The hot-off-the-grill banana (5 baht) was firm but ripe and served with a caramelized palm sugar sauce that was salty and sweet. The combination was lovely.

As soon as I polished off the hot banana, I purchased a Thai iced tea (13 baht) to wash it all down. Served with crushed ice and a straw in a plastic bag, the tea was creamy and sweet as can be. The tea may have been too sweet for some, but it was just right for me.

Still on the search for a killer plate of Pad Thai, we stopped for dinner at Thip Samai (3/3 Mahachar Road, Phone: 022216280), an eatery specializing in the famous Thai noodles. I arrived at our destination not the least bit hungry, but still in the mood to feast—that can’t be healthy.

We shared one order of the restaurant’s special Pad Thai, which came with giant prawns, cuttlefish and green mangoes (120 baht). Bean sprouts, peanuts, fish sauce, hearts of palm, and limes were served on the side for diners to garnish.

This was perhaps the best Pad Thai I ate in Bangkok, but it wasn’t nearly as good as what I’ve eaten in the states. I wonder if the Pad Thai that I fell in love with is actually an Americanized version…probably.

We also shared a plate of the traditional Pad Thai (25 baht). It was pretty much the same as the special featured above, minus the juicy shrimps, cuttlefish, and mangoes.

As a follow-up to our Pad Thai-fest, The Astronomer ordered a huge bowl of wontons (40 baht) from a vendor nearby. Lush and I both frowned upon eating Chinese food while in Thailand and didn’t partake. The meaty dumplings and savory broth filled up The Astronomer’s bottomless pit for the time being.

As we walked toward the metro station to jet home, we stumbled upon a ginormous nighttime market selling food, electronics and junk. The market spanned at least five city blocks and was frequented mostly by locals. Even though The Astronomer was already full, the squid on a stick (20 baht) looked too irresistible to pass up. The squid was cut up into rings and served in a plastic bag with a chili sauce. It’s texture was Phu Quoc-tender, but the sauce wasn’t up to par.

Liana purchased a pomegranate sweet (20 baht) that was served with crushed ice. Whereas Vietnamese che is sweet and refreshing, I found this Thai rendition quite tasteless.

The Astronomer’s final treat of the day was a rainbow ice cream (10 baht). The flavors advertised included chocolate, orange, pandan, strawberry, and coconut. The ice cream turned out to be cold and sweet, but the flavors were nothing more than food coloring.

We went to bed satisfyingly stuffed.

Scenes: Eating in Bangkok I

We arrived in Bangkok on a late Thursday night. After we settled into our tree house/hostel, we walked around the Sukhumvit area looking for midnight snacks.

The Astronomer and Lush shared short-ribs on a stick for 20 Thai baht (1 U.S. dollar = 31.6 Thai baht). It seems like I’m practically the only person on Earth who doesn’t get excited about meats on a stick. It was clear after this evening that they rank alongside ladyboys as the pride of Bangkok.

If there’s one thing that moves me, it’s carbohydrates. Even though it was completely unoriginal to order Pad Thai, I couldn’t help myself. The noodles were made to order by the gentleman above.

This is the first of many plates of Pad Thai to come (30 baht). Peanuts, chilies and fish sauce were served tableside for each diner to season their noodles to taste. The texture of the noodles were good, but the sauce was short on the tamarind and thus lacked the tangy oomph that I love so much about Pad Thai.

After our snacks, we headed back to the hostel to crash.

On our first full day in Bangkok, we headed to the mega-malls along Sukhumvit road. The shopping complexes in Bangkok put King of Prussia (Philadelphia, PA) and South Coast Plaza (Orange County, CA) to shame. I procured two sweet dresses. If this were a fashion blog, I’d totally share. Since it’s not, you’ll just have to settle for what I ate. On our walk to the mall, The Astronomer picked up a pineapple pastry (12 baht). The crust was buttery and flaky and the pineapple preserves were sweetened nicely.

We stumbled upon an outdoor market selling all sorts of food a few meters away from the pastry vendor. We picked up a box of “Chinese Pudding” (40 baht) to share. Our variety pack contained dumplings filled with jam bean and shrimp, bamboo shoots and shrimp, Chinese chives, and taro. The one filled with Chinese chives was bitter-city. The sauce was lacking a certain something, maybe MSG? We were happy to try a new dish, but weren’t crazy about this one. A+ for presentation.

As we circled the market, I spied a lady serving up sticky rice! If you haven’t figured it out by now, I am a sucker for sticky rice.

We sat on a stoop just outside the market to dig into our box (25 baht). The rice was topped with shitake mushrooms, ginko nuts, a salted egg yolk, sweet taro paste, chicken and dried shrimp. Talk about everything and the kitchen sink! The combination of sweet and savory ingredients struck me as peculiar at first, but turned out to be decent.

Next, I picked up the most disappointing grilled banana ever (5 baht). It was starchy, dry and didn’t contain a trace of sweetness. I took one bite and gave the rest to a homeless woman. I should have picked up the grilled corn rounds instead.

After some shopping in Central World, we headed to their extensive food court to refuel. I learned from Austin at Real Thai that the food courts in Bangkok are a great way to familiarize oneself with the local fare because English translations are truly very helpful. I was much too full to partake, but luckily The Astronomer had some space left.

He ordered a green curry and red curry with rice (40 baht). The green curry (L) contained plenty of bamboo shoots that I liked, but was way too spicy for me. Mouth. Fire. The red one was milder and reminiscent of Indian curry.

On our walk home from the mall, I spotted one of my favorite Thai treats—Mango with Sticky Rice! Eee!

I’m not sure if its a supply and demand issue, but mangoes with sticky rice in Bangkok are pricey. At 40 baht, the price of this dessert is roughly equivalent to a street entree. The mangoes I had in Bangkok were unbelievably good—sweet, soft and luxurious. The perfectly ripened fruit really makes the whole dessert shine.

Our final snack of the afternoon were some Thai Tacos (2 baht). The exterior was a thin and crispy pancake that tasted like a fortune cookie. The insides consisted of marshmallow cream and shredded vegetable matter. Pumpkin? Squash? Googling “Thai Tacos” did not shed any light on the matter.

After shopping and gorging all day long, The Astronomer and I went on a run at a park in town. Circling the man-made lake was a real treat after months of choking on motorbike exhaust in Saigon. Afterwards, we pounded the pavement once more to eat eat eat. Lush and I picked up a bowl of lemongrass mushroom soup (40 baht) from the vendor above. She, along with the corn and chicken dealer (below), were stationed on Soi 11.

Brimming with a variety of fungi and vegetables, the aromatic hot soup was very pleasant. My favorite were the enoki mushrooms, straw mushrooms and zucchini slices.

Meanwhile, The Astronomer purchased some boiled corn on a cob (10 baht). It tasted just as we suspected—corn-like.

He also picked up a nice looking piece of fried chicken (12 baht). He said it was better than the Colonel’s original recipe. Now, that’s a compliment. South East Asia adores KFC.

Lush’s second course was made from eggs, condensed milk, tomatoes, onions and pork…

The Thai omelet (20 baht) was full of fluffy-eggy glory. This dish was very satisfying, especially with its huge serving of rice. Lush thought the vendor went a little too crazy with the chili sauce on top. Yep, it sure looks that way.

The Astronomer had a bowl of pork noodle soup with fish balls (25 baht) for his third course of the evening. He proclaimed the noodle soup good, but not nearly as tasty as the Vietnamese noodle soups he has enjoyed these past couple of months.

Our final bite of the day were Kaitenyaki, also known as Japanese waffles.

We purchased two waffles to share, one made with custard and the other with taro (4 baht). The batter tasted like a cross between Jiffy cornbread and frozen pancakes. The custard-filled one was our favorite.

Sala Thai

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July 13, 2007
Cuisine: Thai

6161 El Cajon Blvd Ste A
San Diego, CA 92115

Phone: 619-229-9050
Website: none

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Pad See Oew – Stir fried rice noodles, broccoli, egg, and soy sauce ($7.95)

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Pad Thai – Stir fried narrow rice noodles with tofu, bean sprouts, crushed peanuts, egg, and Thai seasonings ($7.95)

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Mango with Sweet Sticky Rice ($3.95)

Something feels a little off—I’m in Saigon blogging about San Diego. Things were a bit too relaxing in SoCal and as a result, I fell behind on food reviews. No worries though, they’ll be up shortly and I cannot wait to begin sharing my Vietnam food adventures!

My family is afraid of three things:

  1. Communism
  2. Getting fat
  3. Thai pirates

The first two fears are somewhat self-explanatory, but the third needs some insight. Pirates steal and rape. And even though Thai pirates stole and raped the Vietnamese people a good long while ago, some family members still hold a grudge. In fact, my late Aunt Van refused to eat Thai food due to her distaste for pirates (pun intended). Luckily, there isn’t any beef between pirates and my mom, so we go out for Thai food whenever my mom is too tired to cook.

Sala Thai is one of our favorite spots because of their reasonable prices and good location. As per usual, I ordered Pad Thai with tofu. What can I say? I know what I like! Sala’s Pad Thai was far sweeter than Pad Thais I’ve enjoyed in the past, but not overly so. The sweetness was delicate and welcomed. The thin rice noodles were just as I like,  al dente.

My mom ordered a noodle dish called Pad See Oew for her entrée. This dish is very similar to chow fun due to the shape of the noodles and soy sauce seasoning. She liked it well enough, but similar to me, Pad Thai is her fave.   

For dessert we shared some mango with sticky rice. The rice was warm and drenched in a creamy coconut milk. The sweet and tart flavors of the mango and coconut was a perfect ending to our meal.

Reading Terminal Market

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March 24, 2007
Cuisine: International

Reading Terminal Market, 12th & Filbert
Philadelphia, PA

Phone: 215-923-6175
Website: www.readingterminalmarket.org

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The Astronomer, Luscious (introduction to come), Colton (see White Dog Cafe), Eve (Colton’s girl), and I met up at the Reading Terminal Market for an impromptu lunch last weekend. With so many choices available, we decided the best plan would be to split up, buy our food, and meet up at the Beer Garden to chow together. The Beer Garden was Colton’s idea.

Even though I frequent the market often for fresh produce at Iovine Brothers, I rarely patronize other vendors. I took this opportunity to try Little Thai Market. I’ve been scouring message boards and food websites trying to find decent Thai food in Philadelphia ever since I moved into town and had heard good things about this place. I ordered a Vegetarian Pad Thai ($5) because it is my favorite. The woman behind the counter tonged up some pre-made “plain” Pad Thai (noodles with sauce and tofu), tonged in some pre-stir fried vegetables, then popped the bowl in the microwave. After she nuked it, she added some fresh bean spouts, steamed broccoli, peanuts, and a lime wedge on top and passed it on to me.

The Pad Thai wasn’t horrible, just incredibly tasteless. The subtle sweetness and tanginess that makes Pad Thai delicious were completely absent. The flavors that were present stood out independently because the ingredients never melded during the cooking process. Nuking does not count as cooking.

Colton and Eve had a much better dining experience at The Original Turkey. Eve ordered the Turkey Platter ($8) consisting of roast turkey and three sides, while Colton opted for the Turkey Sandwich ($7). Colton enjoyed the sandwich very much; his favorite parts were the plentiful mayonnaise and turkey. Eve liked her Thanksgiving platter too–she said that the turkey was cooked very well and was tender and moist. Colton agreed, but thought the stuffing was too dry and the sides in general were unspectacular. Eve generally likes canned cranberry sauce, but didn’t care too much for the stuff dished up on her platter. She also mentioned that the lettuce leaf garnish was a nice touch, but not necessary and kind of took over the cranberry sauce. The gravy’s texture was not too runny, salty, or gel-like which suited Eve well.

The Astronomer headed over to Profi’s Creperie for a chicken and spinach crepe with pesto ($5.55). I had a couple bites and thought that it was fairly decent, but nowhere near as wonderful as the crepes served up at Beau Monde because the crepes at Profi’s are made with white or wheat flour rather than the traditional buckwheat. There was plenty of chicken and spinach (perhaps too much spinach for the Astronomer’s taste), but the pesto was faint. The Astronomer liked his choice and washed it down with some beer.

My friend Liana, who I refer to as Luscious, is visiting for a week from Hawaii. She picked up lunch at Mezze and Le Bus Bakery. From Mezze she chose three antipasto–marinated fresh mozzarella, marinated olives, and some Moroccan chicken. My friend is a foodie of few words. She said the antipasto were “not bad,” which basically meant they were good, but didn’t wow her. The almond croissant she picked up at Le Bus was dry and disappointing. She finds the almond croissants at Metropolitan Bakery vastly superior.

The selection of food available at the Reading Terminal Market is impressive, but the quality of some vendors is lacking. DiNic’s is far and away the best eatery in the market.

Tamarind

December 28, 2006
Cuisine: Thai

7970 University Avenue Suite 310
La Mesa, CA 91941

Phone: (619) 337-2581
Website: http://www.tamarindthai.com/

Pad Thai – Stir fried small rice noodle with egg, tamarind sauce, leek, bean-sprout served with ground peanut on top ($8.50)

My friends Kellie and Aaron along with Kel’s husband Mike met for dinner at Tamarind to reminice about old times, catch up on new times, and eat some great Thai food.

Every time I eat at a Thai restaurant I make a conscious effort to order something other than Pad Thai. Sadly though, my efforts are usually futile because I REALLY like Pad Thai. Although I tried hard to order something new, this visit was no different, I ordered Pad Thai.

Tamarind makes a killer Pad Thai; I ordered mine with tofu. Other options include mock meat, vegetables, chicken, seafood, or beef. It must be noted that the noodles were superb due to their natural elasticity. I don’t think I have ever had such great noodles. Additionally, the sauce was appropriately sweet and sour. But since I like my Pad Thai on the sour side, I squeezed some fresh lime juice on top. Lastly, the tofu was fried to a nice crisp and the fresh bean sprouts brought a lovely crunch. Overall, a perfect rendition of my old standby.

Kellie ordered a fantastic Green Curry. The taste of lemongrass permeated the entire dish.

Smile Cafe

 

October 6, 2006
Cuisine: Thai

105 S 22nd St, Philadelphia 19103
Btwn Chestnut St & Sansom St

Phone: 215-564-2502
Website: http://www.thaismilecafe.com/

Appetizer I: Lemongrass Soup

Appetizer II: Steamed Dumpling – Shrimp and corn with garlic Thai spice with sweet soy vinegar

Entree: Pad Thai – Stir-fried rice noodle w/ shrimp, bean sprouts, tofu, egg and peanuts.

Smile Cafe is a quaint (read: small) restaurant around the corner from my apartment. I’ve wanted to try it for sometime but am generally hesitant about Thai food in Philly. I went for lunch with some co-workers and had a surpisingly pleasant experience.

The restaurant has an incredible lunch special – two small appetizers and an entree for $7.95. Whatta steal! The appetizer choices I didn’t pick were the salad and spring roll. One of my co-workers ordered the salad and it looked great. No sign of iceberg anywhere; just lovely greens and other vegetables. A few co-workers opted for the “spring roll” option. It was deep fried and therefore an egg roll, but they seemed to dig it just fine.

My lemongrass soup was flavorful and mild. There were veggies in the soup including broccoli, yellow squash, and mushrooms. Very tasty, but could’ve been more spicy. I was served two good-sized dumplings. They were steamed to perfection and quite yummy especially with the sweet soy vinegar. The dumplings reminded me of dim sum, which is somewhat troubling because I was in a Thai restaurant. That’s the problem with Thai restaurants in Philadelphia; they cater to the white man’s love for Chinese food.

My Pad Thai entree was very good and the portion was quite large. I was a bit disappointed that I had to ask for limes (there should ALWAYS be limes on the side) and the waitress brought out lemons! South East Asian cuisine does not use lemons.

Overall, I found the food to be very tasty, but questionably Thai.